I've got some "fine" scotchbrite pads. In theory, if you get a scratch or stain you can repair with a steel wool rub and new oil and wax. I finally have a house with a garage, and well, I'm starting to accumulate toys, errr.. tools and getting my hands dirty. hey all, first time poster, but have been lurking for bit. His original finish was boiled linseed oil. I'd love to use it this weekend for dinner, like you said, it's taken this long, why rush it?! Mainly, it's the wife's personal preference. I'm new to the forum here as well. His original finish was boiled linseed oil. The result now is a milky finish, made worse by someone placing warm dishes on the table. just using it as the stand alone finish and/or using it as a top coat over tung or BLO? My neighbor happens to be a woodworker, so I enlisted his help to build the table top. I've found several old post on the subject (and watched a couple videos too), but have a few specific questions about my potential finish technique(s) and the products I've been testing. Display as a link instead, × yeah? Tim Inman: Traditional finishes like boiled linseed oil can be very attractive. Especially, finding a black walnut table is not an easy task. - Behlens - If we choose to go a different direction down the road (or need to fix a small area), how difficult is it to fix? Test on sample boards first, so you’ll know what to expect before you finish your tabletop! Does the whole thing need to be stripped/sanded down, or can I work on just that small area? Furthermore, black walnut has good shock resistance and is moderately dense which makes it an ideal material for furniture. You may will find the product in different designs but you would hardly find a product which actually matches with your mind. My wife really loves the look of teak, but price for material was insane. This very well could be the winner. Brushing lays down a thicker coat of finish than wiping will. Remember, the higher the gloss of the new finish, the more the flaws will show. A satin or flat will probably come closer to matching the original oiled look. Looking forward to seeing pics of your project. The Behlens seems to have a lightness to it that mimics that teak a bit, so that may very well be the choice. This still seems to impart a color to the wood. I recently inherited a 60-year-old drop-leaf black walnut harvest table that was made by my grandfather. I suggest using a wipe-on type top coat because this type has a longer open time for application then the brush-on types, in my opinion. The last time I tried to 'finish' a project, it turned out terrible. Tomorrow I dive in. the grey ones. They are not very durable over the long haul, though. In answer to your question, yes, it is a matter of personal preference. Someone along the way applied water-based polyurethane, I assume directly over the old finish. The wife is now leaning towards the BLO finish with a urethane top coat. ;->. To avoid hassle, ... Use a good quality polyurethane finish material for long lasting protection of your walnut table; Fix any dents/problems. Once the old finish is stripped away, a gel-based polyurethane would be very easy to rub into the tabletop, and you can build up the finish by reapplying as many coats as you like. Tempe. I put a bit of Howards over it, and feels and looks pretty nice. I finished our kitchen table 10 years ago with oil-based poly, and despite the wear and tear of a busy family with children, that tabletop still is going strong. Carefully wipe away the bad old stuff. Welcome to the forum. My thoughts exactly. They self-destruct, if you will. Darker woods like walnut, on the other hand, look better with a “warmer” finish that brings out the rich, dark color. Upload or insert images from URL. Finishing a walnut dining table - help needed Finishing a walnut dining table - help needed. will report back. i started with my hand planes, then got out the belt sander, and then finally admitted it was not worth the time, the dust, or the aggrevation. This prevents the residue from becoming a slush which gets stirred around and rubbed back into the wood. This material is available in conventional liquid forms and in gels which can be rubbed in. – Denise Kramer. If interested, you may want to contact Pierre Erizias at Erizias Basses as he is our go-to guy using some of the latest UV finishing techniques out there. I know I haven't done enough coats, or have enough experience doing them, so mine aren't turning out quite as expected. nod, Any assistance you could give me would be very helpful. I appreciate all the info and feedback. Powered by Invision Community, Finishing a walnut dining table - help needed. This is a family heirloom that hopefully I will be leaving for my grandchildren. I'll have to post some pics of my sample boards when I get a chance. I can't seem to find anyone who's got much experience with the new formula. They often make the most of the natural beauty in wood. The older was great but I dont know about the newer formulations. Seems like the more I read the more confused i get, and really does it just boil down to personal preference at this point? ... 18115 N. Black Canyon Hwy Phoenix, AZ 85023 [email protected] 602-504-1931. Lightly scuff sand. I've read wipe on coats are about half of brush on (2 wipe on : 1 brush on ratio), but is that more true for varnish/film finishes? Copyright 2020 The Wood Whisperer, Inc. Thanks for the info on cure time. Update - the seal coat (dewaxed shellac) didn't quite add much color that I was expecting. Mine was 36X60, my shop charges $75/hour. That’s what I did for my kitchen table, and I’ll do it again when the top finally needs refinishing someday. June 5, 2013 in Finishing. Not sure how big yours is, but this is 42"x 84". How many more coats of BLO should I realistically be thinking about? × Putting polyurethane over the top of a failing oil finish is quite common to see. I know over the years that he had the table, he would occasionally refinish it with the linseed oil. RPM has been going through some changes over the last couple years. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. - Boiled linseed oil - several coats plus a howards wax and feed topcoat, - pure Tung oil - several coats plus howards, - Behlens rock hard urethane varnish 'satin'. I want to refinish the table to its original beauty, but need professional advice, for fear of making it worse. - Tung/BLO - Can I/should I use a coat or two of Behlens over the top of either of these to impart more protection? I like the idea of being able to simply fix it if need be, but I'm sure others will argue if you put a different layer of protection on there, I'd probably never have to fix it. I was always afraid of shellac, but it seems not like the scary beast I thought it was. my questions are these: - Is there a lighter alternative to the Watco 'natural'? I selected all the wood (with his veteran guidance). I know over the years that he had the table, he would occasionally refinish it with the linseed oil. yeah, I guess that sounds pretty comparable. Thanks for posting the pictures. I'm on it. I know much more now (at least in theory), but since this is such a special project, I really don't want to screw it up. This method is especially useful when you want to make a table top, desk top, counter, to get a smooth clear top coat finish. Didn't quite flood the 3rd coat as much as the first two, but gave it a good coating, let it sit, then rubbed it in and wiped off any excess and/or weeping I saw. Does anyone have experience with Behlen's? leave it as is and then wax or varnish? This job was quick enough that they just charged me the shop minimum of $25. Too bad in your case the original linseed oil finish and the water-based poly were incompatible. Applying a top coat, especially for a dining table is of utmost importance. But I didn't trust myself, or have the tools for this project.
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